Commonplace

Pearl's Recipe Box

I can't remember how I came to have

this box.

It belonged to my grandmother, Pearl and has been in my possession for years.

Pearl died died in 1986 when I was seventeen. Her husband, my grandfather, Fred, died when I was six. After that she married once and moved to Montréal from New York City for a brief time. When she returned, I remember her as being sad. During my high school years I had dinner with her once a week in her apartment on East 73rd Street. (I think it was Tuesday nights.) She always cooked for me. The meals were basic and delicious. One dish that stands out in my memory was something she called Chicken-in-a-Pot. Her salad bowl was wooden and before loading it up, she was in the habit of rubbing it's inside with a garlic clove. She had embossed green glass goblets that we drank our water out of and velvet upholstered dining chairs. She once showed me the scar from her mastectomy. My mother was furious, but it didn't bother me. I'm told I look like her.

I don't know exactly why I've let this box sit closed for so long or what compelled me to finally open it, but last weekend I did.

I knew it was her recipe box but I was unaware of exactly what treasures lay inside.

The papers were yellowed and musty and almost too brittle to unfold. The writing, familiar and foreign, only partially legible. Niall suggested that perhaps my father (her son) would be able to decipher the codes.

She collected recipes on little bits of clues about her life. One written on notepaper from The Hotel Webster Hall on Fifth Avenue in Pittsburgh. I like to assume that she was visiting my father who went to college there. Another written on a page torn from a date book marked — Thursday, April 30, 1964. The year of my parents' marriage. Still more written on old checks and curious receipts. 

The recipes fall into three major categories: Jewish cooking, recipes passed along from friends and those cut out from newspapers. Some fall into multiple categories.

Among the Jewish recipes I found:

Easiest Potato Kugel
Cauliflower Pudding
Matzo Brie
Charoses For Seder and Kneidlach for a Meat Meal (New York Post Monday, April 1 1968)
Potatoe (this is how she spelled it) Soup
Potatoe Pancake
Sour Cream Pancake
Mother's Matzo Balls

Some of her friend's recipes:

Pot Roast - Miriam
Baked Chicken - Lois
Chocolate Cake - Ruth
Chicken Fricasse - Irma
Goulash - Mrs. Schaer
Veal Cutlet - Jenny
Veal Loaf - Esther
Cold Slaw - Faith (Faith, I suspect, is my mother)
Dip - Ruth
Cake - Edith

There were also multiple recipes for types of 'moulds' (also her spelling) including: Beet and Horseradish Mould, Apple Mould and Strawberry Mould. I vaguely remember these being all the rage in the seventies.

A list of recipes I hope to try one day:

Sunday Morning Coffee Cake
Cheese Cake
Chocolate Bar Cookies
Icebox Cookies
Banana Cake

(Notice a theme?)

Here is something she called

Cookies Charlotte

1/2 pound of butter
1/2 cup cream cheese
4 cups flour
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 egg yolks (put whites aside and brush on top of cookies)
1 teaspoon vanilla

Roll into shape of salami (Yes, that is exactly what it says. Salami.) in wax paper and chill for about two hours. Cut cookies. Brush on egg white and sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar or chopped nuts.

I never did find the recipe for Chicken-in-a-Pot.

Thanks for visiting.

Carrot-Raisin Quick-Bread

This one is just a cake in bread's clothing.

Oven: 350 degrees
Yield: Two loaves

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup granulated sugar plus 2 tablespoons
3 eggs
1/4 molasses
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup shredded carrot
3/4 cup golden raisins (or walnuts or both)

Directions
Sift dry ingredients into a medium bowl
In a large bowl, combine oil, sugar, eggs, molasses and vanilla. Add shredded carrot and raisins and mix to combine. Pour dry ingredients into carrot mixture and stir until combined. Pour batter into two prepared loaf pans and bake until toothpick inserted into center comes out with a few moist crumbs attached (about an hour).

I've always thought that this one would be delicious with a cream cheese frosting...
8 ounces cream cheese, softened
5 tablespoons unsalted butter softened
1 tablespoon sour cream
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups confectioners' sugar
Mix all ingredients together EXCEPT the sugar until well combined
Add sugar slowly and beat until light and very fluffy

Project Quick-Bread: Buttermilk Cinnamon Loaf

I can't remember where this recipe comes from. It's printed on a yellowed ragged torn piece of newsprint that lives in the front of my recipe journal. It's simple delicious goodness.

Ingredients

4 cups all purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup shortening
2 cups sugar
4 eggs
2 cups buttermilk
2 teaspoons vanilla

For cinnamon swirl:
2  tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon cinnamon

Directions

In a medium bowl, sift dry ingredients together and set aside.

In a large bowl, combine shortening and sugar. Add eggs and vanilla. Mix until smooth. Stir in dry mixture and buttermilk alternately just until combined. Divide one-third of mixture between two greased loaf pans.

Mix together swirl ingredients and pour a light dusting over each loaf. Swirl through batter with a knife.

Add remainder of batter divided into both loaf pans. Sprinkle swirl over top of loafs but don't mix into batter.

Bake at 350 degrees until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with only moist crumbs attached (about an hour).

I've always meant to try this with a delicious glaze drizzled over the top. Maybe maple-sugar or a simple buttermilk glaze... but I always eat it before I can bother.

V over at Bumble beans (one of the most talented and creative quilters I know) posted her favorite Pumpkin Bread recipe as part of Project Quick-Bread. Thanks V!

Tomorrow's recipe: Carrot Raisin Loaf.

Project Quick-Bread: Cranberry Orange Loaf

The list of people who touch my daily life has increased tremendously since I had my second child last year: teachers, bus drivers, babysitters. Conversely, the time I have available for making gifts has diminished exponentially. As much as I would like to make fingerless gloves for Jake's guitar teacher a neck warmer for his vocal instructor and a tote bag for Quinn's babysitter (the actual list is well into the double digits) I know my limitations. I'm not knitting or sewing for anyone this year. The pleasure of the crafting is completely lost in the rush to meet the deadline.

But I can bake.

I'm thinking about lovely little packages of mini quick-breads. Some of my favorites are: cinnamon-buttermilk; pumpkin; classic bannana and cranberry-orange. Over the next little bit I'll post one recipe each day (although I don't promise a photo every day). I'd love to try some of your favorites as well. If you have a great recipe for a quick-bread that you'd like to share, comment here or send me an email and I'll complile a list. I'll link to your blog (if you'd like) and/or post the recipe here.

I'll start today with Natalie's Cranberry-Orange bread.

Ingredients
1 Package of cranberries
6 ounces frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed
2 navel oranges, zested
6 ounces water
1/2 cup shortening
2 cups granulated sugar
2 eggs
4 cups all purpose flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon baking soda

Directions
preheat oven to 350 degrees, grease two 9x5 loaf pans or 1 bundt pan
mix juice zest and water and set aside
cream shortening and sugar, add eggs
sift dry ingredients together
add juice mixture to shortening mixture
slowly add dry ingredients to juice and shortening mixture just until combined
gently fold in cranberries
pour into prepared pan(s)
bake until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean (about 45 minutes)

Bonus Soup Recipe

In celebration of my new floors and in anticipation of having to be off my feet for the next two days (it's nothing major) I'm making that black bean soup after all. Sorry Niall, I know it's not your favorite (it's true friends, my husband is not a fan of the bean in general) but I like it and so do our boys.  This recipe was given to me by the owner of a little bakery down the block from my first apartment in New York City. She had a daily soup and she made this one every Wednesday.

The soup calls for canned beans in their liquid. This can make for a pretty salty soup. Natalie opts to rinse the beans, drain the liquid and add beer in it's place. I can't vouch for that technique, but she has never steered me wrong before. This soup is also perfectly suited to be served in a small hollowed out round of crusty bread.

Ingredients
Soup
1 medium onion chopped coarsely
cooking oil
1 jalapeño pepper chopped coarsely (remove seeds for less heat)
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon dried cumin
1 28 ounce can crushed all purpose tomatoes
3 15 ounce cans black beans

Garnish
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup sour cream
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

Instructions
Heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat and add onion. Cook onion until softened. Add jalapeño, cayenne and cumin. Combine and cook for one minute. Add tomatoes and beans and cook on low for one hour to six hours. Combine all ingredients for garnish and add a dollop to individual servings.

Soup for the Soul

There are days when soup warms more than just one's body. Today is one of those days.

This is the current state of my living room.

And my boys' playroom.

And my mood.

(I would like to add here that the demolition of our living room and the complete replacement of our floors is not something we're doing by choice. It is fully a result of a flood that came from my neighbor's unit. I mention this so that no one thinks my grumpy mood is inappropriate.)

It's soup swap Monday at Turkeycookies and I promised black bean, but it's not happening. 

Instead, I will share with you a recipe for Chicken Tortilla Soup which my friend and neighbor Chris has perfected. In an example of what can only be interpreted as divine intervention, Chris made a batch yesterday and brought me some to have for lunch today.

Thank you Chris.

Here is his recipe:
Adapted from Cook's Illustrated

Ingredients

Tortilla Strips
8 corn tortillas (6-inch), cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
table salt

Soup
2 split bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts (about 1 1/2 pounds) or 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 1 1/4 pounds), skin removed and well trimmed of excess fat
8 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 very large white onion (about 1 pound), trimmed of root end, quartered, and peeled
4 medium cloves garlic, peeled
8 sprigs fresh cilantro
table salt
2 medium tomatoes, corted and quartered
1/2 medium jalapeno chile
1 chipotle chile en adobo, plus up to 1 tablespoon adobo sauce
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Garnishes
1 lime, cut into wedges
1 avocado, diced fine
sour cream

Instructions
FOR THE TORTILLA STRIPS: Adjust oven rack to middle position; heat oven to 425 degrees. Spread tortilla strips on rimmed baking sheet; drizzle with oil and toss until evenly coated. Bake until strips are deep golden brown and crisped, about 14 minutes, rotating pan and shaking strips (to redistribute) halfway through baking time. Season strips lightly with salt; transfer to plate lined with several layers paper towels.

FOR THE SOUP: While tortilla strips bake, bring chicken, broth, 2 onion quarters, 2 garlic cloves, epazote, and 1/2 teaspoon salt to boil over medium-high heat in large saucepan; reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until chicken is just cooked through, about 20 minutes. Using tongs, transfer chicken to large plate. Pour broth through fine-mesh strainer; discard solids in strainer. When cool enough to handle, shred chicken into bite-sized pieces; discard bones.

Puree tomatoes, 2 remaining onion quarters, 2 remaining garlic cloves, jalapeño, chipotle chile, and 1 teaspoon adobo sauce in food processor until smooth. Heat oil in Dutch oven over high heat until shimmering; add tomato/onion puree and 1/8 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring frequently, until mixture has darkened in color, about 10 minutes. Stir strained broth into tomato mixture, bring to boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer to blend flavors, about 15 minutes. Taste soup; if desired, add up to 2 teaspoons additional adobo sauce. Add shredded chicken and simmer until heated through, about 5 minutes. To serve, place portions of tortilla strips in bottom of individual bowls and ladle soup into bowls; pass garnishes separately.

Rainy Afternoon Baking

Even before Quinn got his 2.5 teeth he was munching on everything in sight. I was amazed at the strength of his gums to mash up anything I handed to him. His first word was cookie, although it came out as an un-spellable sound (I knew what he meant).

Graham crackers are part of childhood. Try making these and you'll never go back to store-bought again. The flavor is much richer and there isn't even a hint of that cardboard taste. Even grown ups can eat 'em.

Ingredients:
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup rye or graham flour (or just up the amount of all-purpose flour by 1/4 cup)
1 1/2 cups whole-wheat flour
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons molasses
1/4 cup cold water
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Method:
In a food processor, mix together the flours, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cinnamon. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add the honey (I like to spray my tablespoon measure with some non-stick spray before I add the honey and molasses to help it release) molasses, water and vanilla. Mix until the dough starts to come together in a ball.

Shape dough into a disc and place between two sheets of wax paper. Refrigerate for at least an hour.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly flour rolling surface, rolling pin and dough and roll dough to 1/8-inch thickness. Cut into squares of whatever size you like and transfer to a parchment lined baking sheet. The crackers do not need any space between them on the sheet as they will not spread much. Prick some holes in each cracker.

Bake until lightly browned around the edges, about 15 minutes. Remove from oven and transfer to rack.

Anyone for s'mores?

Birthday Festivities

There were decorations

and fresh food.

Tomato, Corn, and Avocado Salad from Everyday Food.

There was family and friends (and some finished objects)

There were funny faces.

The cake was Lemon Buttermilk (recipe posted below) and Quinn found it to be a bit tart.

This mobile was Aunt Katha's clever contribution.

A good time was had by all.

Lemon Buttermilk Sheet Cake
(Adapted from Cooks Country)

Cake
2 1/2 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup buttermilk
3 tablespoons grated lemon zest
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 3/4 cup granulated sugar
12 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
3 large eggs
1 egg yolk

Glaze
3 cups confectioners' sugar
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons buttermilk

1. For the cake: preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease and flour 13- by 9-inch baking pan. Combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in medium bowl.

2. Combine buttermilk, lemon juice, and vanilla in small bowl.

3. Beat granulated sugar and lemon zest until moist. Transfer 1/4 cup sugar mixture to small bowl, cover, and set aside. Add butter to remaining sugar mixture and beat until fluffy. Beat in eggs and yolk, just until incorporated. Add flour mixture and buttermilk mixture alternately. Mix until smooth.

4. Pour batter into prepared pan and bake until top is golden brown and toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, 25 to 35 minutes. Transfer cake to wire rack and let cool 10 minutes.

5. For the glaze: Meanwhile, whisk confectioners' sugar, lemon juice, and buttermilk until smooth. Gently spread glaze over warm cake and sprinkle evenly with reserved sugar mixture. Cool completely before serving.

Comfort Food

My mother is a competent chef but to say that she only cooks occasionally is an understatement. Some months after my younger brother (the last child at home) left for college, the local gas company sent a letter to my parents inquiring as to whether they were still alive. The company was concerned because of the length of time that had passed since the stove was last turned on. (True story.) Growing up on New York City's Upper East Side provided many options for take-out. Comfort food to me meant that the guys who took the orders on the phone at the local Chinese and Italian restaurants knew my voice.

When I went to college in a small town in Central Maine the food options were somewhat more limited. I moved off campus after Freshman year and wanted to cook the things I liked to eat. I would call my Mother for advice but found her repertoire of Jewish Holiday recipes to be more detailed and ornate than what I wanted for a quick weeknight supper. I had a boyfriend from a town nearby who's mother had cooked hearty wholesome dinners for eight children every night for decades. She was generous and patient with me and over time I learned how to cook dishes that were simple and delicious. They were usually made from local ingredients and whatever was on hand. Dishes often cooked in one pot and sometimes simmered all day. I learned that casserole wasn't a dirty word and breadcrumbs could come in very handy on occasion.

I like to think that since then my cooking style has evolved to incorporate my New York Jewish roots and my Mother's and Grandmother's recipes, along with the casseroles and stews of dear Mrs. Coleman. My idea of comfort food has thusly evolved as well. Today I'll take a good one-pot supper over some esoteric game bird any day.

Slow Cooker Pulled Pork
Serves 10 for dinner or 14 for sandwiches

1 pork butt (which is the shoulder and usually weighs about 5 lbs. - it often comes with the bone in and that is just fine)
1 medium onion, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons chili powder
1 tablespoon  paprika
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3 cloves of garlic, minced
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 cup brown sugar
3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup low sodium beef stock
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup ketsup

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a skillet over medium high heat. Sear and brown the pork on all sides and transfer to the slow cooker.

Using the same skillet, turn the heat down to medium and add the onion. Add the chili powder, paprika, pepper, and cumin and cook about 3 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook about 30 seconds. Add the cayenne pepper, brown sugar, Worchestershire sauce, salt, and beef stock. Bring to a boil and pour the skillet contents over the pork in the slow cooker. Cook on low for 6-8 hours or as long as it takes for the pork to be fork tender.

Transfer the meat to a large bowl and let it cool slightly.

Use two forks (or your hands) to pull the pork apart.

Strain the cooking liquid and reduce it in a saucepan by about half, until it's slightly thickened. Add the pulled pork back in and add the vinegar and ketsup.

Serve on a hamburger bun or roll for sandwiches or all by itself for dinner.

Vacation

We're home!

We went here.

It's an annual trip that we make with old friends. We did a lot of watching the kids do this

and this

Jake* learned how to do this

We saw one of these**

and some of these**

and these

We went here

and picked lots and lots of these

and ate them while sitting in these

and gazing at this

And drinking these

Frozen Strawberry Margaritas

Ingredients
4 cups frozen strawberries
1/4 cup sugar
4 tablespoons frozen limeade
2 cups ice
2/3 cup tequila
2/3 cup orange juice

Instructions
Place all ingredients in a blender and blend until desired consistancy

We hiked here

The kids got to play with fire in their pjs

I hardly did any of this

There was none of this

And Quinn* hardly wore clothes at all.

My favorite moment was in the car on the way home. I was feeling sad that vacation was over when I had a realization. Niall, Jake and Quinn were all coming home with me and we would  be together when we arrived home, when we went to bed in our own beds and when we woke up the next morning. Who needs vacation?

*I'm giving up on the 'website-safe' nicknames.
**Moose and Loon photos from nationalgeographic.com – I'm just not that fast with my camera.